Independent shops and plenty of tasty food

48 hours in Narberth

With it’s multicoloured Georgian and Edwardian houses, the characterful clock tower, and a proudly independent high street selling everything from the most delicious deli food to fine art, this quaint little market town in the heart of eastern Pembrokeshire has established itself as a foodie and shopper heaven and a must-visit destination.

Not only is Narberth’s buzzing high street renowned in Pembrokeshire and wider Wales as a perfect year-round destination, it’s also been voted best place to live in Wales by the Sunday Times. And it’s easy to see why – the town is a thriving mix of eclectic and unique traders with high-quality offerings in its many lovely shops, eateries and galleries. One of the driving forces behind its success is a bursting arts scene which brings all sorts of live music and performances to this small Welsh town. Did you know the Queens Hall was the first place in Wales where Elton John performed? It’s a place where the locals live and work, surrounded by quiet lanes and lush woodland walks to escape into and beaches a mere 15 minutes away for morning dog walks and evening swims. Notable events throughout the year draw in many visitors and might influence when you come… Don’t miss Narberth Food Festival held annually on the last weekend of September, the summer Carnival that brings colour and costume to the July streets, or the Big Plant Sale in the springtime which raises money for influential local charity Span Arts.

You might find yourself staying for longer than 48 hours.

Narberth Food Festival takes over the town in September

Start the day in high street heaven…

The morning sees the high street come to life, so enjoy the hubbub of daily life commencing in this vibrant town. Follow your nose to the smell of freshly baked croissants and bread at Rock & Dough and grab a coffee to go at this popular bakery which sells out every morning. The almond croissants are to die for. Suitably woken with caffeine and pastry, spend a relaxed morning perusing the shops and boutiques at your leisure, taking in the artistic and culinary capability of Narberth’s local community. There are all kinds of shops to explore – if you’re after something special to show for your time in Pembrokeshire, you’ll definitely find it here. It’s hard to pick out favourites, but we love the Golden Sheaf Gallery – head on up the plush carpeted staircase to the first floor gallery, where you’ll find originals and prints from local artists, including big Pembrokeshire names such as John Knapp Fisher, Jackie Morris and Chris Neale, art supplies to equip your holiday, and beautiful books to take home. The shop’s six rooms spill out into the old clock tower, so be sure to cross the road and have a look inside this historic town centrepiece. It’s worth popping into Ultracomida Deli with its fabulous array of cheeses on display as well as Spanish almonds, tins of paprika, Rioja and olives. It does an excellent espresso too if you need a pick-me-up. Lose yourself in Wise Buys with its shelves spilling with local flavours and fresh fruit and veg, and for organic and wholefoods try the PlumVanilla Café or the Happy Planet Green Store.

The Golden Sheaf Gallery

After you’ve had your fill of the high street’s shops, wander away from the noise of the road and step back in time up a hidden alleyway to The Malthouse, a stunning period building filled from floor to ceiling with antiques and vintage curiosities. The perfect setting for the historical treasures it holds, enjoy The Malthouse’s airy attic, exposed beams and wooden floorboards from centuries ago as you browse the many trinkets in this wonderful store. Once you’re done inside, head to the Malthouse cafe for a delicious light lunch and homemade cakes and find a table in its idyllic walled garden Soak up the tranquillity listening to the hum of bees and smelling the perfume of flowers in this little haven tucked away in the town centre. The gardens are managed by L&J Nursery next door, from which you can purchase potted plants and succulents.

After lunch…..

Take a wander down towards the castle ruins, calling in at the Oriel Q Gallery and the Narberth Pottery across the road. The Narberth Museum – in the historic Bonded Stores – is also at this end of town and is well worth a visit. It has a great interactive display as well as an independent bookshop and cafe, perfect for picking up that holiday read.

If you’re hankering after the countryside, there’s not far to go – it’s quite literally on your doorstep. Footpaths lead out from the town taking you along flourishing hedgerows and into tranquil woodlands. Head down Carding Mill lane, from the Town Moor car park,

Head to the Town Moor car park and take the footpath down Carding Mill Lane. You’ll soon be enveloped in the calm of the woods. From there you can continue into Canaston Woods and further still to Minwear Forest along the banks of the Cleddau River.

Back in Narberth, stop for a drink in The Star – a recently opened micropub which enjoys the last of the afternoon sun – and make dinner plans. There’s Hwb, a ‘Tap and Food Hall’ with four street food-style vendors operating at any one time (tacos, Thai, dirty fries and burgers were on the menu last time we visited) plus an almost-overwhelming selection of beer and cider from independent breweries to choose from. Top Joe’s does tasty authentic pizzas while the Angel pub serves top quality homemade food and a selection of the very best Welsh beers and spirits. For something more special the 3 AA Rosette Fernery Restaurant at the Grove is a short drive outside of Narberth. Executive Head Chef Douglas Balish serves up beautiful dishes worthy of an art gallery at times, using the highest quality seasonal produce and vegetables grown in the restaurant’s own garden. Enjoy a 5 or 8 course tasting menu, or book yourself into afternoon tea. Annwn, in the old HSBC bank in the heart of Narberth and headed up by chef Matt Powell, has reached the attention of the Michelin Guide and gained a Michelin Green star in 2024. The 10-course tasting menu is a testament to his innovative culinary style, where French classical foundations meet rich, local Welsh ingredients. Dishes like tender Welsh lamb braised in Cleddau honey and served with a sea buckthorn emulsion are inspired by Matt’s extensive collection of traditional Welsh cookbooks.

Fernery Restaurant, Grove of Narberth

The next day….

There’s no better way to start a second day in Narberth than with breakfast in Stopio. Open daily from 8am for breakfast, brunch and lunch, the Stopio poached brekkie is one of the best around. The homemade cakes are equally delicious as is the expertly made coffee.

Once you’re raring to go, book yourself in for a session at Wild Lakes Wales where you can learn to wakeboard and boulder, challenge yourself at the aquapark or experience the thrill on the ringo rides. This is a great day out for anyone who loves the water and just a short drive away from Narberth. Refuel by tucking into mouth-watering food at the tipi for a late lunch.

Finish the afternoon…

Make your way back to Narberth to Fire and Ice for an artisan Gelato or Sorbet – there is something delicious to tickle everyone’s tastebuds, as well as some adult-only options. We love the Rasberry Prosecco Sorbet, and other alcoholic flavours include Grapefruit G&T and Cider… Truly a must-try, these flavours have won many awards over the years. This lovely little business also stocks a staggering number of Welsh Gins (over 100 types!) and an excellent selection of local ciders, ales, and other Welsh spirits which are a perfect way to take a bit of Pembrokeshire home with you.

A special way to finish…

Finally, after a busy day, relax and unwind with a meal at Black Pool Mill, a Georgian Mill situated right on the banks of the estuary. Catch the last light of sunset reflecting on the water, which, at high tide, laps at the banks just meters from the restaurant. A perfect end to a stay in Narberth!

Picton Castle

It’s not a coastal honeypot, but the Pembrokeshire hub of Narberth makes up for that with a busy arts scene, great shops and its annual food festival

Chris Moss, The Guardian