30 September 2026
The Preseli Mountains, or Preseli Hills, whichever you prefer, rise to 536m in northern Pembrokeshire and are in complete contrast to the relative lowlands of the south.
The landscape is wild moorland, heath and grassland, home to a wide range of plants and invertebrates, some of them quite rare. It also has a remarkable connection to one of Britain’s best-known ancient monuments: some of Stonehenge’s smaller bluestones came from the Preseli Hills, more than 150 miles away. How they made that journey remains a mystery.
The hills are the ideal location for some great walking away from the coastline. For some of the best views in Pembrokeshire, pull on your sturdy shoes and take the short walk to Foel Eryr, where the 360-degree panorama leads the eye across the sea to Ireland and towards Snowdonia on a clear day.
For a longer stroll right across the spine of the Preseli Hills try The Golden Road. At 8 miles, this ancient track follows a route that is said to date back to the Neolithic period, 5,000 years ago and the main route for travellers in prehistory to and from Ireland.
Prehistoric remains are dotted across the hills, from burial cairns to Iron Age hillforts. The hilltop of Foel Drygarn is a real must-see, with its ancient earthworks set among natural cliffs and crags.
These stones are woven into Pembrokeshire’s legends, too. On the northern slopes, the ancient burial site of Bedd yr Afanc takes its name from the Afanc, a mythical water creature said in local folklore to have lived nearby. Further west, Carn Ingli, the “Mountain of Angels”, has long held spiritual associations; tradition says St Brynach lived on its slopes.
The Preseli Mountains are sparsely populated, but a few hamlets and villages are dotted around the hills. Pontfaen in the Gwaun Valley is home to the famous Bessie’s pub, where beer is still served from the barrel in a jug. There’s also Rosebush, with its community pub made of zinc; Tafarn Sinc.
