09 July 2026
I grew up in Pembrokeshire, and even after eight years working here with National Trust Cymru, exploring new places, I’m still discovering new corners of this county that make me stop and smile. That’s what I love most about Pembrokeshire — no matter how well you think you know it, there’s always another hidden path, another view, another moment of quiet beauty waiting for you.
Two places I return to again and again, both personally and professionally, are the Marloes Peninsula and Southwood Estate. They sit on opposite sides of St Brides Bay, each with its own character and rhythm. One is wild and windswept; the other is gentle and rooted in centuries of farming. Together, they show the full range of what makes Pembrokeshire so special.
The Marloes Peninsula – Where Pembrokeshire Shows Its Wild Side
If you want to feel the full drama of the Pembrokeshire coast, head for the Marloes Peninsula. It’s a place shaped by wind, waves, and deep geological time — a landscape that feels wonderfully untamed.
Marloes Sands
Martin’s Haven: A Small Harbour with a Big Sense of Place
Martin’s Haven is a tiny pebble beach tucked into the northern edge of the peninsula, but it has a huge presence. Boats to Skomer leave from here, and even if you’re not heading across, the atmosphere is unmistakable: seabirds overhead, the sound of the tide on the stones, and the rugged headland rising behind you.
Martins Haven
Just above the harbour sits the Deer Park, a windswept headland that was once an Iron Age fort. Despite the name, there are no deer here — just sweeping views across to Skomer, Skokholm, and Middleholm. On still days, the islands seem close enough to touch; on windy days, the waves in Jack Sound churn with incredible energy. It’s one of my favourite short walks when I want to feel the raw power of the coast.
Skomer from Deer Park
Marloes Sands: A Beach That Never Looks the Same Twice
Just around the peninsula lies Marloes Sands, one of Pembrokeshire’s most dramatic beaches. At low tide, it becomes a vast sweep of golden sand, dotted with rock pools and backed by cliffs that reveal millions of years of geological history. At high tide, the waves surge right up to the rocks, turning the whole bay into a natural amphitheatre.
I’ve visited this beach in every season, and it still surprises me. The colours, the light, the sense of space — it’s a place that feels both wild and welcoming.
Marloes Mere: A Quiet Wetland Full of Life
Just inland is Marloes Mere, a peaceful wetland that comes alive with birds, especially in winter. It’s easy to miss if you’re heading straight for the coast, but it’s one of those places that rewards slowing down. Stand still for a moment and you’ll start to notice movement everywhere: ducks, waders, dragonflies.
Southwood Estate – A Landscape Shaped by Nature
If Marloes is all drama and wild edges, Southwood Estate offers something quieter but equally fascinating — a landscape where natural processes are increasingly shaping the land. Rolling fields, traditional Pembrokeshire hedge-banks, wetlands, scrub, woodland and species-rich grasslands combine to create an ever-changing countryside overlooking St Brides Bay.
It's a place where habitats are being reconnected, wildlife is finding more space to thrive, and the landscape is becoming richer and more diverse with every passing year. Rather than managing every corner intensively, Southwood is giving nature more freedom to shape the future of the estate.
A Working Landscape Guided by Natural Processes
Southwood stretches between Roch and Newgale, encompassing nearly 1,000 acres of countryside shaped by generations of farming. You can still see that history in the old farm buildings, winding hedge-banks and field patterns that define the landscape.
Today, the estate is evolving as habitats become more connected and natural processes take a greater role in shaping the landscape. Wetlands are being restored, ponds created, species-rich meadows expanded, scrub is developing across parts of the estate, and woodland is being allowed to establish naturally in sheltered valleys. The aim is not to create a fixed picture of nature, but to allow the landscape to become more dynamic and resilient over time.
A key part of this approach is naturalistic grazing. Welsh Black cattle and ponies help shape the landscape as they move across large areas of connected habitat, grazing grasslands, browsing scrub and carrying seeds through the countryside. As internal fences are removed, livestock are increasingly able to roam across the estate, helping create the dynamic and varied vegetation structure that benefits wildlife.
The Coast‑to‑Coast Walk: From Fields to Sea
One of my favourite ways to explore Southwood is the Coast to Coast walk, a route that takes you from the sheltered heart of the estate all the way to the wide sweep of St Brides Bay.
The walk passes through a changing landscape of meadows, wetlands, scrub, woodland edges and historic hedge-banks. Along the way you'll see how different habitats blend into one another, creating space for birds, pollinators and other wildlife to flourish. Buzzards are a regular sight overhead and, if you're lucky, you may spot yellowhammers, skylarks or a barn owl.
The route also passes fields managed specifically for rare arable plants. In summer, corn marigolds can create a striking sea of yellow, providing a spectacular display as well as valuable habitat for insects and farmland birds. These fields support some of the most important arable plant communities in Wales and are a unique feature of the estate.
You may also encounter Welsh Black cattle or ponies grazing nearby, playing their part in the ongoing stewardship of the landscape.
As the path climbs, the landscape opens — and suddenly, the sea appears. The view across Newgale and St Brides Bay is one I never tire of. On bright days, the water sparkles; on misty mornings, everything feels softened and peaceful.
Why These Places Matter to Me
- They show two very different sides of Pembrokeshire
- They’re places I return to on my days off
- They remind me why I love this county — and why I love my job
- They offer space, perspective, and a sense of connection to the land
Marloes Peninsula and Southwood Estate might sit on opposite sides of the bay, but together they tell a story of a landscape that’s rich, varied, and endlessly rewarding to explore. Whether you’re looking for wild cliffs or quiet fields, dramatic views or gentle paths, these are places that stay with you long after you’ve left.
Visitor Tips
For Marloes Peninsula
- Check tide times before visiting Marloes Sands — the beach changes dramatically with the tide.
- Wear sturdy footwear; the coast path can be uneven and exposed to the elements.
- Bring binoculars if you enjoy wildlife — seals, chough, and sometimes porpoises can be spotted.
- Boat trips to Skomer leave from Martin’s Haven (seasonal and weather‑dependent).
- Park at Marloes Sands and Mere car park or Martin’s Haven car park (National Trust, charges apply).
- Visit Runwayskiln café at Marloes Sands for a bite to eat or head to Lockley Lodge at Martin’s Haven to purchase some puffin inspired items and support the Wildlife Trust of South and West Wales.
For Southwood Estate
- Paths can be muddy after rain, especially through the woodlands — waterproof boots are a good idea.
- The Coast‑to‑Coast walk is gentle and family‑friendly, with plenty of places to pause and enjoy the views.
- Look out for wildlife in the hedgerows and fields — buzzards, butterflies, and songbirds are common.
- Newgale beach is nearby if you want to combine your walk with time by the sea.
- Sunrise and sunset are especially beautiful here, with soft light across the fields and bay.
- Park at Southwood Farm (National Trust, charges apply). No toilets here, nearest at Newgale Beach.
