48 hours in Pembroke

Step back in time…

There’s no doubt that the charming walled town of Pembroke - which dates back over 900 years - is most famous for its Norman Castle. Pembroke Castle is one of the most complete Norman castles in the UK and the birthplace of Henry VII, founder of the Tudor dynasty. Now open to visitors year-round, there’s no better way to get to know Pembroke by spending your morning learning about its fascinating history and marvel at its imposing walls which have been constructed, rebuilt and restored over the last thousand years to house many important figures. Check out the website for daily events over summer, including re-enactments and falconry displays along with informative and interactive exhibits in the castle. In the wintertime, look out for Christmas markets. After you’re done inside, examine the majestic fortress from all angles by taking the lovely circular route around the millponds that would once have been the castle’s moat. This accessible, tarmacked loop can be walked or cycled, and the best views are from the tidal wall on the castle’s far side, built to contain the millpond and prevent the water escaping with each tide. From this angle, the township is practically hidden behind the battlements… a sight not to be missed! You can also hire a rowing boat from Paddlewest to enjoy the aspect from upon the water itself, or even take a half-day canoe tour of the Cleddau estuary to get a deeper feel for the landscape and historically important waterway. Watch out for herons, swans, coots and moorhens, and keep your eyes peeled for bats flitting across the water at dusk.

Al fresco lunch

After all that history, it’s time to explore the beauty of the Pembrokeshire coastline, with some of the best beaches in the UK just a short drive away. Head to Stackpole Inn, a 17th-century traditional inn popular with walkers, for a hearty lunch. Set in pristine gardens at the heart of the National Trust's Stackpole Estate, you can enjoy locally produced and sourced food at its finest, with a focus on the best fish offered by Welsh waters. In wintertime, the woodburning stove creates a warm and cosy atmosphere. Alternatively, treat yourself to tea and cake in the sunshine at Bosherston Tea Rooms (also known as Olde World Café) or a pub lunch at The St Govans Inn next door. Close by are Stackpole Quay, beautiful Barafundle Bay, the lily ponds of Bosherston and the stunning beach at Broadhaven, so you’re spoilt for choice when it comes to an afternoon at the beach. The more adventurous can venture along the coast path to St Govans chapel, a late medieval building on an ancient hermitage site where the saint allegedly hid from pirates. The steps can be steep and slippery, but it’s worth it to see this beautiful little stone hideaway. It’s a nice walk from here along the coastal path to the Stack Rocks and Green Bridge of Wales. These incredible natural rock formations have been carved out of the limestone cliffs by the force of the ocean and powerful wave action over thousands of years. This is a lovely, mainly flat walk of under 1.5 miles, through the Castlemartin firing range’s rich habitat, home to many animals and plants as a result of the area being largely closed off to humans. Be sure to check if it’s firing before you come.

It’s worth hanging around til after dark too, as the Broadhaven car park is a designated Dark Skies location. The uncluttered, stunning cliff top location offers a 360 degree panorama of the night sky. The National Trust hosts special dark sky events at the nearby Stackpole Centre so worth checking their website too.

After such an active day you’ll need somewhere luxurious to get a good night’s sleep ready for day two. And this far west, you’re spoilt for choice. If you fancy camping or glamping try Stackpole Under the Stars, set within the beautiful Stackpole Estate complete with a mown games lawn and fire pits for some late night stargazing. Nearby Warren Farm also offers beautiful, spacious bell tents right on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path for families to enjoy glamping the way it should be. There’s also a cosy bunkhouse perfect for groups planning to make the most of the great climbing, surfing, coasteering and other activities on the doorstep.

For campers wanting to be closer to Pembroke town, then try Windmill Hill, a family run site, situated just one mile from Pembroke and in easy reach or the Pembrokeshire Coast and the National Park.

Other luxurious accommodation options include East Trewent Farm, three beautifully converted and furnished cottages, or Portclew House, a grand Georgian Country Mansion set in three acres of grounds. Both properties are just a five minutes' walk to the beach and coast path near Freshwater East and perfect for families. Alternatively, you can’t get closer to the beach than at The Sandcastle, a beautiful five-bedroom Colonial-styled family home right on the edge of Freshwater East beach.

Day two

Make sure you’re up and early on day two for another action-packed adventure. There’s so much to see! Many of the must-see places are serviced by the Coastal Cruiser bus service (number 387), making it easy to be an eco-conscious traveller, or to simply relax and ditch the car for a day.

Hop on the Coastal Cruiser to explore the Angle Peninsular. The sheltered West Angle Bay sits in the mouth of the Haven Waterway so is a perfect place for snorkelling or just relaxing on its golden sand, before a scrumptious lunch at Wavecrest cafe right on the beach. From the beach there is a lovely circular walk all around the headland, passing some very unspoiled and remote little coves before reaching Freshwater West and turning back inland. This is a strenuous but rewarding section, and walkers should note that there are no escapes or road-based short cuts around the headland until you cut back in land at the beach. For something shorter, walk north around the coast to East Angle Bay then cut back through the village, stopping off at the Old Point House - a historic and charming 16th Century coastal inn which is a great spot for a cheeky pint.

For those looking to stay here, the Globe is a superb country mansion in the heart of Angle village which has just been renovated and upgraded to provide luxury comfort, technology and style with original art and both modern and traditional touches to all its rooms.

The bus route services all the beauty spots on Pembrokeshire’s southern coast, including Freshwater West, where you can try your hand at riding the famous waves with a lesson from Outer Reef Surf School. Outer Reef also offer coasteering or paddleboarding where you can arrive at the breath-taking Barafundle Bay from the water, swimming, jumping and traversing your way around the cliffs from Stackpole Quay, or in a kayak on a leisurely tour. Or, for those with a head for heights, book onto a day of climbing the exquisite cliffs of south Pembrokeshire with Climb Pembroke or The Climbing Company. The instructors will guide you to the most suitable routes in groups limited to 1:2, teach you skills, or simply climb with you if all you need is someone to belay.

For a rather more tranquil way to spend your day, head to the well-maintained Stackpole Walled Garden - a must offering a glimpse into a bygone age. For the past 250 years the garden has produced food for the table and that long tradition continues to this day, managed by the trustees of Pembrokeshire Mencap Ltd. It also has a delightful cafe and tearoom. There’s a lovely walk around the Bosherston Lily Ponds from here – go in June to see the lilies in bloom – which comes out onto the exquisite Broadhaven South beach.

Another way to really get to know this part of Pembrokeshire is to head inland towards the Cresselly Estate, a historic property owned by the same family since 1564. Check out their opening times and learn about its history, architecture, and famous visitors such as Coleridge and Wedgwood. From here, it’s just a short drive to the Cresselly Arms, a proper traditional pub that has been named as the best pub in Wales by CAMRA (Campaign for Real Ale). Situated on the Cresswell River, CAMRA said "stepping into this Grade II listed hostelry is like stepping back in time". It added: "Dating back to the 1880s, the Victorian public bar has changed little over the centuries. The homely farm kitchen interior is of national historic interest, with a red and black quarry-tiled floor, roaring open cast-iron fireplace, Victorian-era counter and bar-back shelves held up by slender columns.”

After a drink (or two) there’s a lovely walk across the river via stepping stones (only at low tide).

Before you leave…

Head back to Pembroke town to reflect on a well-spent 48 hours in the west. Perhaps amble through the town, stopping in some little shops and galleries along the way and picking up a souvenir. We love Leicester House Gallery and Gifts for sea-scape prints, lovely greeting cards, pottery and homeware; the owner also hand-dyes colourful rolls of paper for those extra special presents and sells all kinds of craft supplies for the artists among you. Or follow the bronze plaques set into the pavements on the Pembroke Town Trail to learn more about the town’s rich history involving the Knights Templar, Cromwell and of course Henry Tudor.

There are a number of great pub choices for a final drink. The Waterman’s Arms has a terrace that juts out over the water’s edge where you can sit with the millpond lapping gently at your feet, or find a space on the sunny bridge between the upper and middle ponds with a pint from The Royal George. On the high street, you’ll find the Old Cross Saws Inn, which has a sunny beer garden enclosed by trees and medieval stone walls.

Wherever you end up, be sure to raise a toast to this wonderful part of Pembrokeshire and start panning your return visit.