Newport to St Dogmaels
This is a long and challenging walk in wild surroundings but so worth it.
This stretch of the Pembrokeshire coast path is a taxing one but walkers are amply rewarded for their efforts by continuous contact with wild and beautiful cliff scenery. Some of the highest cliffs in Pembrokeshire are encountered on this stretch, and walkers will climb more than 3000 feet or 915 metres before they reach St Dogmaels.
There are no services between Newport Sands and Poppit – walkers should ensure that they are properly prepared with adequate food, drink and clothing. You may wish to take two days over this section with a break at Moylgrove – you can escape at the midpoint at Ceibwr bay but you need to walk 1 mile inland to Moylegrove to pick up the bus back to St Dogmaels.
Highlights along this section include the sheltered coves which in the late summer are dotted with the fluffy white Atlantic Grey seal pups. Pwll y Wrach or Witches Cauldron is a collapsed cave that is accessible from the sea. Ceibwr Bay was once a port serving the nearby Moylegrove is a great location for spotting seabirds.
As you head north towards Cemaes Head you’ll cross the highest point on the coast path at 575 feet or 175m – don’t forget to turn around and admire the spectacular views all way down the coast to Dinas Head and Strumble Head – watch out for the flashing lighthouse.
Along this section of the coastline, there are magnificent examples of folded rock and faults in the cliff faces especially from Ceibwer north to Pen y Afr.
From the centre of Newport, head north, down to the estuary
Walk inland, up river, to the bridge. Cross over and walk towards the sea along the far bank
Cross the golf links to the car park and out towards the headland.
The path is reasonably level as it slowly gains height
There are a few interesting cliff features along here including natural arches and the impressive Pwll-y-Wrach or Witches Cauldron. The rocks around Ceibwr are severely folded too.
Ceibwr Bay is a narrow pebbly inlet. It’s a perfect spot for a mid-point rest. Head inland to Moylegrove if you’ve had enough. You can pick up the Poppit Rocket
As you approach Cemaes Head, there are a number of inaccessible beaches. Dozens of grey seals give birth to fluffy white pups on these beaches between September and November
Round the corner of Cemaes Head to see the Teifi Estuary spread out in front of you. This is a really good place for porpoise and dolphin watching
Pick up a tarmac road down to Poppit Sands
At low tide, Poppit Sands extends almost to the cliffs on the far side
Carry on to St Dogmaels along the road to the official start or finish point. The working flour mill and Abbey ruins are worth a visit
A recent addition is the fantastic Coach House visitor centre in between the Mill and the Abbey. A fitting place to relax once you’ve finished – or to build up your strength before you start!
If in doubt, follow the acorn symbols that indicate where the route goes
Refreshments: Pubs and cafes in Newport. Cafe at Poppit Sands. Visitor centre with a cafe, plus a fish & chip shop and a couple of pubs in St Dogmaels.
Attractions en-route: Pwll-y-Wrach or Witches Cauldron at Ceirbwr bay, a collapsed sea cave. Y Felin Mill in St Dogmaels, St Dogmaels Abbey (ruins), St Dogmaels Visitor Centre.
Nearest Tourist Information Centre: Haverfordwest
Tel: 01437 775244