Caerfai to Whitesands

9½ miles

9½ miles

Caerfai to Whitesands

On this rugged section, you probably see everything from the thrill-seeking adventurers on the cliffs below to seals hauled up on inaccessible coves.

From the beachhead, at Caerfai the Coast path winds its way around St Nons Bay and past the chapel dedicated to St Non, the mother of St Davids, Wales’ patron saint.

As you walk towards the small inlet at Porth Clais keep an eye open for adventurers; kayakers, climbers, and coasteerers throwing themselves off the cliffs.

As you reach the headland after Porthlysgi beach you will have reached the most westerly point in Wales and Ramsey Island comes into view.

The Coast Path into St Justinian’s hugs Ramsey Sound and a stretch of water known locally as ‘the Bitches’ – it’s one of the fastest flowing stretches of water in the UK. Experienced kayakers can be seen ‘playing’ in the waves if conditions are right.


  • Start at the car park near the tourist information centre. Head south along a lane to Caerfai Bay and turn right

  • The first landmark you reach is the retreat & tiny chapel at St Non’s

  • The nearby remnants of an older chapel are dedicated to St David’s mother, St Non

  • A little further on, the path descends first to the tiny inlet of Porth Clais, then to a wider beach at Porthlysgi before reaching the headland

  • This is the most westerly point of mainland Wales and a good spot to see grey seals

  • In front of you is Ramsey Sound and Ramsey Island, an important RSPB reserve

  • A line of jagged rocks, The Bitches, cuts across the tide race, providing sport for jet boats and kayakers

  • The distant lifeboat station at St Justinian’s is where boats depart for Ramsey Island.

  • Around the corner from here is a small beach at Porthselau and the magnificent sweep of Whitesands Bay

  • It may be possible to reach Whitesands from Porthselau, if the tide is right out but it’s no hardship to go along the top

  • If you plan to finish in St Davids, turn inland by the cafe and walk up the hill to a five road cross roads

  • Don’t take the sharp right, take the next right instead. It’ll lead you straight to The Cathedral

  • If in doubt, follow the acorn symbols that indicate where the route goes

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Useful information

Refreshments:  Cafe at Porth Clais car park (seasonal) Whitesands Bay cafe. Plenty of choice in St Davids.

Attractions en-route: Boat trips from St Justinians, St Davids Bishops Palace, Oriel y Parc Landscape Gallery and National Park visitor centre, and St Davids Cathedral.

Nearest Tourist Information Centre: St Davids at Oriel y Parc Landscape Gallery

Tel: 01437 720392


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I can highly recommend Pembrokeshire - it has everything for a great holiday!

Valery Collins, Experienced Traveller