A candy coloured Georgian seaside town
48 hours in...Tenby
You can’t beat a trip to the great Welsh seaside and whether you’re daydreaming at your desk of reading that long-abandoned novel over brunch on the coast or a simple walk on the beach with a melty ice cream, Tenby will deliver whatever you’re yearning for in buckets and spades.
Early mornings in Tenby…
There’s something magical about watching the sunrise on a beach as yet untouched by the crowds. It’s worth getting up early to watch the sun appear over the horizon before maybe braving a cold water dip or, for something more genteel, wandering around the harbour as Tenby begins to stir. By now, it’s coffee time – we love the Stowaway, a super hipster cafe tucked away in a Grade II listed arch on the harbour. Or try Caffé Vista for friendly service and a view to die for, definitely the best view in Tenby.
One of our favourite walks is along South Beach towards Penally, where you can join the coast path and follow the route up onto the clifftops with spectacular views over Caldey Island and even Lundy Island on a clear day. It’s a spectacular and breathtaking walk heading towards Lydstep, before taking a short detour inland to find Bubbleton Farm Shop. This family-friendly farm shop does superb coffee and cakes and serves some of the heartiest breakfasts in the county. There are sheep, chickens and pigs for the kids to feed and oodles of space for them to run riot.
In the afternoon…..
Back in Tenby, it’s worth a quick trip to the intriguing fort on St Catherine’s Island if the tides allow. Or if not, wander the cobbled streets exploring the quaint and quirky alleyways and hidden shops. The very photogenic Sergeants Lane is perhaps the most photographed street in all of Wales. Make sure your wanders take in one of the numerous art galleries to browse some of the excellent local artists, the Tenby Museum and Art Gallery is a popular choice, as is Llewellyn’s Fine Art gallery. There’s a National Trust Tudor merchants house tucked down Quay Hill between The Qube restaurant and the Lifeboat Tavern. The RNLI lifeboat station on Castle Hill is also a must and if you’re lucky you might get to see the lifeboat descend the ramp on a training exercise.
More than just fish and chips….
No trip to the seaside is complete without fish and chips and there are plenty to choose from. Fecci’s traditional fish and chips is one of the most popular and they offer a gluten and wheat free batter, and fry them in a separate fryer for you.
But it’s not just fish and chips. Try eating at Top Joe’s for great pizza or Tap and Tan on Upper Frog Street – an independent craft beer taproom and live fire cookery joint. Near St Marys Church on High Street, you’ll find Umi offering a relaxed dining experience serving Japanese influenced dishes using the best fresh, free range and wherever possible, local ingredients.
The next day….
A must visit on any trip to Tenby has to be Caldey Island, a 20-minute boat journey from either the harbour or Castle beach, depending on the tides. It’s a monastic island with an order of Cistercian monks living in the monastery. As well as the island buildings including shop, post office and a lighthouse, the island has an interlinked network of paths that criss-cross the island with amazing views. Time must be made to visit Priory beach, its golden sands and crystal clear waters make it a perfect stop for a picnic or ice cream while watching the Caldey boats come and go.
Back on the mainland, it’s time for ice cream – you can’t go wrong with Fecci’s again – this traditional ice cream parlour was established in 1919 and has since been voted the best in Wales. There’s no better way to while away an afternoon at the beach but if you fancy exploring further afield, the beaches of Saundersfoot and Coppet Hall are just a stone’s throw away. If it’s low tide, you can walk from Saundersfoot harbour right around Monkstone Point where you’ll find one of the most underrated and beautiful beaches in Pembrokeshire with views of the iconic Tenby skyline.
The last supper…..
Splash out on your final evening in Tenby at the Plantagenet House which specialises in modern British cooking in an intimate period building with a medieval Flemish chimney. Or for something equally impressive, try the nearby Lan Y Mor restaurant at Coppet Hall for a real taste of gorgeous, local cuisine and a cracking seaview!