Sat on the Cleddau river, Haverfordwest is the county town of Pembrokeshire. Although it’s inland, its central location means it’s a great base for exploring all Pembrokeshire has to offer. Just 20 minutes to the north takes you to the rugged and wild north coast, while 20 minutes west are the surf beaches of Newgale and Broadhaven. To the south are the tranquil and family-friendly beaches of Tenby and Barafundle, while east takes you into the Preseli mountains and wooded valleys or rural Pembrokeshire. With a train station and the main bus station, Haverfordwest is accessible from all directions and is served by the main supermarkets. Whether you’ve arrived by car, bus or train, we’ve pulled together some ideas for your holiday so you don’t miss the best bits.

For those using public transport, check out the Fflecsi Pembrokeshire bus service – instead of operating a fixed route and a set timetable, Fflecsi operates within a set zone and is available anytime between 7.30am and 6.30pm (Monday to Saturday). Customers can book by downloading the Fflecsi App from the App Store or Play Store. Alternatively you can book by phoning 0300 234 0300 (Mon-Sat: 7am – 7pm/Sun: 9am – 6pm).

Day one

Start your holiday by getting to know the area by bicycle. Pembrokeshire Bike Hire will deliver hire bikes and e-bikes to holiday accommodation in many different areas including Haverfordwest. Pick up the Brunel trail – a mostly off road route linking Haverfordwest with Neyland (once the terminus of Brunel’s Great Western Railway). This flat and tarmacked route winds through woodlands, a wildlife reserve, Brunel Quay and the picturesque Cleddau estuary. Pause at Neyland marina – one of the largest and prettiest yacht havens in Wales – and treat yourself to a well-deserved coffee at Manilla’s in the yacht club. Back in Haverfordwest, look out for the remains of Haverfordwest Priory – dating from the 13th Century and with the only surviving ecclesiastical medieval garden in Britain. It’s worth heading up to Haverfordwest Castle too – this Norman ruin overlooks the town and surrounding area and was used as a prison up until 1878.

For a dose of history and culture in the afternoon, head to Picton Castle – a 13th century castle, surrounded by 60 acres of RHS partner gardens. The castle itself is of unique design; with four symmetrically spaced half round towers and gatehouse entrance flanked by two narrower towers, it is based upon patterns of Irish castles of the period and is the only one of this type in the mainland UK. Wander around the beautiful historic gardens, with highlights including the recently restored walled garden, fernery, jungle garden and ancient trees, giving a feeling of being transported to another time and place. There are impressive collections of rhododendrons, camellias and magnolias to brighten up every corner of the gardens, and a mixture of exotic and indigenous planting can be found throughout the grounds.

Alternatively, take a trip to Scolton Manor – just five miles north of Haverfordwest – and turn back the clock to the Victorian era and experience country life ‘above and below stairs’ over three floors of the Manor House. Dig into history and see the walled garden being brought back to life, or check out the Pembrokeshire Beekeeping Centre and Honey Kitchen. Don’t forget to buy some Scolton Manor Honey to take home with you! If it’s sunny, relax in the sun whilst your little ones enjoy the children’s play area with swings and slides, and make a noise in the brilliant sensory play area.

After all that activity you’ll be eager for a hearty dinner – try Block and Barrel for steaks and burgers, the Bristol Trader for pub fare on the quay, the Forbidden Florist for cocktails or The George’s, a quirky cafe bar, restaurant and shop with a commitment to ethical trading and local produce.

Day two

Your second day in Haverfordwest is all about the beaches. There are plenty to choose from but why not start with a surfing lesson at Newgale? This huge stretch of beach is a popular surf spot with Outer Reef surf school and Newsurf both offering lessons and board hire. There’s also Shaka Surf, a group committed to getting women and girls into the waves. After your exertions on the water, walk right down to the southern end to find a walk-through cave and numerous sheltered bays.

Or if you’d rather watch the waves from dry land, head up onto the coast path and walk in a westerly direction towards Penycwm. After a couple of miles you’ll reach a beautiful sheltered cove called Porthmynawyd which is a great spot for a dip. Head inland towards Pointz Castle for arguably one of the best ice creams in the county, made on the farm using milk from the cows you’ll see grazing the clifftops. Keen walkers can keep going on to the pretty harbour of Solva but be warned – it’s a pretty tough section of the coast path with lots of up and down.

Alternatively, heading east on the coast path from Newgale takes you towards another secluded beach at Nolton Haven, the perfect spot to try paddleboarding and swimming. The coast path takes in Druidston Beach, a spectacular expanse of sand at low tide, and eventually Broad Haven. There are numerous stop offs along the way – try the Druidston Hotel for a drink with a view, or any of the little eateries and cafes along the seafront at Broad Haven. It’s worth hanging around for sunset here as the westerly facing beach gets one of the best sunsets in town – especially when accompanied by a pizza from the Sunshine Italian.

Why not check out the location of the Wild Water Sauna too – this mobile sauna moves around the coast throughout the year with regular spots at Little Haven, Nolton and Newgale. It’s difficult to beat the combination of the cold seawater and steamy heat of the sauna, and it’s the perfect way to really unwind and relax.

Day three

On your third day, it’s time to really explore further afield. Take the 30-minute trip to St Davids, the smallest city in the UK and the birthplace of Wales’ patron saint. The 12th century St Davids Cathedral, built on the site of much older religious buildings, is the reason for little St Davids’ outsize city status. It is undoubtedly one of Wales’ most iconic religious sites and during your visit here you can learn about the history of St Davids, visit the impressive Treasury collection and enjoy home-cooked and locally-sourced food at Mamgu’s in the refectory.

After taking in the awesome cathedral and ruins of the adjacent Bishop’s Palace, take a stroll to the historic St Nons Chapel. A place of pilgrimage for many centuries, its location on the edge of one of the most stunning stretches of the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park adds to the chapel’s spiritual charge. Said to be the 6th-century birthplace of the patron saint of Wales, St David, it is named after his mother, and remains a place of pilgrimage to this day. The small, rectangular chapel may be plain and simple, but its setting overlooking rocky St Non’s Bay is breathtaking. On the path leading up to the chapel you’ll pass a holy well believed to possess curative powers, another popular stop for visiting pilgrims.

Back in St Davids, head to Oriel y Parc Gallery in the national park information centre where you’ll find a class A landscape gallery, exhibiting art and artefacts from the collection of Amgueddfa Cymru – National Museum Wales. Using objects from the art, natural history and industry collections, visitors are able to view a regularly changing exhibition programme.

The city is also a great place to catch a boat trip to the wild offshore islands of Ramsey, Grassholm, Skomer and Skokholm. Here you can really get close to the sea life that call this rugged landscape home. Catch a glimpse of puffins, gannets, porpoises, dolphins and whales and choose a 15-minute island hop or a leisurely cruise depending on how sturdy your sea legs are. Check out The Real Adventure Company, Pembrokeshire Island Boat Trips and Voyages of Discovery for various trips and group adventures.

You’ll need a decent lunch after all that exploring, and we reckon you’ve never eaten bugs before! The Grub Kitchen, at Dr Beynon’s Bug Farm, is the UK’s first full-time edible insect restaurant, with plenty of non-insect dishes available too. Combine a trip here with a look round the tropical bug zoo, bug museum, British bug house, insect farming exhibition, farm trails and the walled garden. There is something for everyone, whatever your age or interest.

Alternatively, make a beeline for the Really Wild Food Emporium and pick up some supplies for a picnic on the beach. Look out for the 403 Celtic Coaster bus which runs continually between the Cathedral, St Non’s, Caerfai, Porthclais and St Justinians (summer service).

Day four

You have options on your last day in Haverfordwest – either heading south over the Cleddau Bridge towards Pembroke, or north over the Preselis to Newport. For something a bit different, make your way to Newport and start with a great coffee and homemade cake at Pwnc, a tiny but superb cafe on the main street. Hire e-bikes from Hidden Tours at Llys Meddyg and set off on a proper adventure in this magical corner of Pembrokeshire. The e-bikes will let you navigate the hills with ease as you head into the Preselis and down the Gwaun Valley. Stop off at Bluestone Brewery and the iconic Bessie’s pub for refreshments and enjoy the panoramic views over the landscape below Foel Cwmcerwyn, the highest point in Pembrokeshire. If you’re feeling particularly energetic, make your way over the mountains and down to Rosebush, where you will find a hidden quarry perfect for a cooling dip and the Tafarn Sinc, a proper Welsh community-owned pub. Loop back to Newport via Pentre Ifan burial chamber and stop off at Templebar cafe for another coffee and authentic Scandi baking.

Back in Newport, drop your bikes off and take a stroll down to the ironbridge over the River Nevern. The town’s Welsh name, Trefdraeth, translates as Beach Town and it actually boasts two beaches: the Parrog and, across the estuary, Newport Sands. The town itself is worth exploring: founded as Novus Burgus around 1200 by the Norman Lord of Cemaes, the street layout sticks closely to the grid pattern of the Norman new town and the castle remains the main landmark of the town. The town also boasts a Neolithic burial chamber, Carreg Coetan Arthur, a 16th century castle (still inhabited today) and the fine St Mary’s Church. It has several quirky little shops for finding your perfect holiday gifts and souvenirs and a number of little eateries for coffee, lunch and dinner.

As the sun sets over Dinas Island on the horizon, you’ll be left wondering when you can come back and explore the rest of Pembrokeshire.